There were a couple of small towns close to Atyrau, but almost nothing beforehand, and we were out of water and nearly out of food. We saw two cafes in total, one of which was kind enough to sell us a loaf of bread, and the other we basically took a day off in due to light rain. Camping had been bad, some nights consisting of trying to squeeze as much of our tent behind some stuck tumbleweed as we possibly could to get out of the wind (which has also been bad at times), and it is unbelievable how flat this place is; even in a desert you get dunes, here, nothing. The night skies have been pretty spectacular however, and we have got to enjoy watching herds of wild horses and the occasional camels roaming around the plains.
By the the first town we were literally down to half a loaf of dry moldy bread, and so we enjoyed the first kebab stand we’d seen since Kiev thoroughly, also stopping for a photo with people posing with air rifles. There wasn’t much else there other than a cow which followed us down the street for a bit. The next town had even less (not even cows), and as we were nearing Atyrau we were desperate for civilisation.